Travelogue Egypt: Day 1 Addis to Cairo

We had plenty of time and still we felt uneasy. What was behind this feeling? Our bags were packed in plenty of time on this Sunday afternoon. Were we missing something? Both Wanda and I felt like we shouldn’t be going. What’s up with that? But, like being locked into a roller coaster car, once you start moving up the first big hill you are locked in, you can’t get out. The Sunday had been normal. We had gone to church then had lunch out with our friends which took us into the early afternoon. It had turned cool and rainy once again, maybe that dampened our spirits.

But by 8 p.m. we were on the road to the airport, all bags packed and kids ready to go. The flight was scheduled to leave at 10:35 (in reality it left at 11:30) and we were to arrive in Cairo around 3:30 a.m. We made it through the first x-ray machine inside the doors at Bole (although we saw a group of Chinese men who didn’t and wondered why they were pulled aside until we saw one man turn his bag upside down and hundreds of large ants fell out and were crawling on the airport floor everywhere). We made it past check-in, we filled out our departure cards and submitted them to the customs official. Then we went up to the next floor and waited.

The ‘red eye express’ may save money but it is hard on the body. We were in a smaller plane, still a jet but probably the smallest model. Everything was tight. The Ethiopian Air crew did the minimum of service. Still we were unable to get sleep, at least I wasn’t able to sleep. The cabin lights kept being turned off and on. Drinks were served, food was served. Yes, I was hungry but it also kept me awake. So when we landed in Cairo I had a ‘heavy head’ and was feeling that stay-up-all-night out of sorts. But the flight went well enough, a few rough patches. As we were landing we flew over Cairo and I saw the Nile, Zamalek island, the Citadel and a few other landmarks. In a small way it felt like I was coming home after 20 years.



We got our visas with no problems (so glad we didn’t try to get them in Addis where the Egyptian consulate said it would take up to 3 weeks!) and walked through customs to get our bags. Once our bags were on a luggage cart it was a matter of going out the front door. Would Mr. Mohamed be waiting for us? Would it all start out well? Right at the door where all the people gathered to greet friends and loved ones was a man with the sign ‘Doug Amstutz’ (he even spelled my name right). It was a relief and pleasure to meet Mohamed, who we had corresponded with over that past several months. He was young, a bit shorter, mustache, no beard. Mohamed greeted us warmly and welcomed us to Egypt, he beckoned the driver (Ashraf) to bring the vehicle up and we piled the luggage and ourselves in the Hyundai minivan (Key of Life transport company). The airport is on the far eastern edge of Cairo and we were heading to the far western edge of Cairo, in Giza, next to the Pyramids. But going through the city at 4:30 in the morning is quite easy to do. Yes there were people and cars out (reminding me of what I once knew, that Cairo never sleeps) but we flew through the streets past landmarks that Mohamed would point out that I recognized. It must have been a blur to the girls and Wanda, but it felt familiar to me.

We arrived at the Grand Pyramids hotel in the dark and Mohamed helpfully worked out the details at the reception counter. I could have done that but I was in a zombie like mode, tired yet my brain was still on. They put us in non-adjoining rooms which was not part of the agreement. We agreed to go because of the state we were in but Mohamed was not finished advocating for us. And that was an advantage of having a tour guide and host while in Egypt. Soon the management said that even though adjoining rooms weren’t available at the moment they would be in 24 hours. They would bump us up to the next level, for the same price, if we would be patient. We said that that would be okay. So we spent the first night in the non-adjoining rooms. Our girls said they preferred it that way and complained about our move but we were not deterred. Wanda and I knew that if we were to stay here for 6 nights we wanted our girls next door.

Everyone was tired but the girls were more wired to go swimming in the warm morning sun and beautiful pool. First we rested, closed our eyes and tried to stop the dizzying feeling in our heads. I chose 8 a.m. as a time to rouse everyone (2 hours nap) for breakfast. The cost included a breakfast so we might as well take advantage of it. The girls didn’t mind because we also agreed to go swimming after breakfast.

The breakfast spread was impressive but it was more designed for Europeans and Egyptians. Yes there was a small cereal bar with milk with three different kinds of cereals. But the deli meat and cheese bar, the salad bar and the sweet breads bar were much more substantial. They also had a wonderful Egyptian breakfast bar, fuul and Egyptian pita bread along with sweets like baklava. Egyptians love sweets dripping with honey and nuts between layers of phylo pastry. They also like pastry with honey dropped in hot oil, honey balls and the like. I had to be careful not to eat those to excess. There was a nice juice bar, either orange or pineapple and karkaday (hibiscus) juice. There was a chef who made a fresh omelet for the diners and there were eggs, scrambled or hard boiled as well as some egg casseroles. In the end there was enough to appeal to North Americans and Asians (a lot of Japanese and some Chinese) as well as the Europeans and Arabs.

And then came the pool. All the restraint the girls had to deal with (wait until we take a morning nap, wait until we eat breakfast) was gone, the rush for the pool was on. And even in the morning, at 9 a.m., the water was pleasant and warm. Of course on this day, June 21, the temperature would soar into the 40’s (90-100’s F) making it a perfect day to be in the water. If we had gone out touring that day, I think my family of females would have wilted early. As it was, everyone was quite happy by the pool. I wanted sleep and so did Wanda but we couldn’t leave the girls unattended at the pool.

After a morning of the girls swimming, we ate a late lunch at the Italian restaurant in the Grand Pyramids compound. The afternoon was more of the same, napping and swimming. We were trying to prepare ourselves for a night out on the town. Mohamed had arranged a Nile Dinner cruise and we were looking forward to it.

In the heat of the late afternoon/ early evening we headed out for the boat on the Nile, not knowing what to expect. I had never done this when I was an MCC’er in Egypt but I acquiesced to Mohamed’s suggestion. We were in for a surprise, a couple of surprises actually. The first surprise was that we were the only family on the boat! The boat was full of adult Japanese tourists and a smattering of Egyptian and western tourists. The buffet was good and our girls were given priority (although they didn’t eat very much) but it was the entertainment that caught us off guard. The biggest surprise was the belly dancer. With a band accompanying her, she came out and shook her booty. She also had a ‘full figure’ which, unbeknownst to me, was fake (see photo). At any rate, there was wide eyed wonder all around our table (including me) when she first came out. Ah well, se la vie. I was interested in hearing what my girls’ comments would be, would they be scandalized? They were, to some extent (they were watching Wanda and I closely) and commented on her skimpy dress and outrageous figure and the whole loud music thing as well. I wonder how the conversation would have been with 3 boys . . .

Next came the whirling dervish, a young man who started twirling in his colorful uniform (see photo). The most amazing thing is that he didn’t stop whirling for the 20 minutes he was on stage. When he stopped he didn’t show any signs at all of being dizzy. It was an astounding display of physical gyroscopic ability, his balance was unbelievable.

The boat traveled up and down the Nile between bridges for 3 hours. After the 2 performances we went up to the top deck. It was a warm, sultry night on the Nile. The warm winds welcoming us, inviting us to stay for the next 2 weeks. As tired as I was, I felt at peace. We were in Egypt, safe and sound, hopefully for the next 2 weeks.