Thursday, December 13, 2007

From Grumbling to Gratitude

Our water was off again. Second weekend in a row. No water for 4 days. Seems there is a water shortage in the city so they turn off sections for 3-4 days at a stretch. No warning. At least that is what the locals are saying. It went off, they asked why, the officials told them, that’s it. The first weekend caught us off guard. Our water tank (pictured) ran dry on Saturday after we had used it all day Friday and the guards had watered all the plants overnight. So we brought jerry cans of water into the house to wash ourselves, wash dishes, flush toilets and boil water for drinking. That was no fun. So last Friday I inquired of our guards, do we have water (“wuha alle”)? Yellum (there is none). So no watering outside, conservation inside . . . and we made it through the weekend without resorting to jerry cans. But now we have 10 jerry cans full of water in reserve. For the foreseeable future water will be 4 days off, 3 days on. All laundry will happen on those 3 days.

Saturday night I was making pizza again. In the two hours it took for me to make it (making the dough, letting it rise, preparing the pizzas) the girls were hovering around claiming advanced states of starvation. Finally, as it was turning dusk (6:30 p.m.), it was time to put the first pizza in the oven, when the power went off. We looked at each other in the semi-darkness, realizing that if the power stays off all night there will be no pizza coming from the electric oven. Children will starve. Adults will be grumpy. Ethiopia Power and Electric’s name will be mud (at least muddier than before). So we lighted candles and waited. The Christmas music played on the computer speakers (battery good for 2 hours) leveling out the grumbling with the familiar and loved music. And then, voila!, the power came on . . . then it went off. Five minutes isn’t enough to even warm the oven up. And then it came back on! I rushed to turn on the oven again. The first pizza was finally baked, and the power went off . . . but it came back on and the second pizza was baked.

Sunday morning came around. Time to drive to our church, International Lutheran Church. But how to get there? Every route to the church is under construction. Roads are being built and expanded everywhere. This causes big traffic jams with trucks, buses, taxis and cars all pushing forward, rarely queuing up in nice neat lines. Should we go past the Canadian Embassy, through Mexico Square? Long lines all week long. Perhaps through the Katenya Hulet roundabout over to Lideta? Same problem. Nothing makes me grumpier than line jumping and there are always a handful who think they are the exception to the rule. Everyone else can wait in line but them. That’s a big pet peeve for me. It’s hard to arrive at church in a worshipful spirit after that.

But Wanda and I were to lead the worship service at ILC. Wanda managed to put together a service and sermon and off we went with our friends to church (other Mennos come out when we are leading worship at ILC, very encouraging). The service was going well enough, like any normal service we have led over the years, until the prayer time.

In a moment everything changed. In the midst of corporate/congregational prayer, our friend Lars stood up. As the head of the Danish Lutheran Mission, he had just received a call that 2 of their mission workers were involved in an accident moments earlier. A child, a little girl, had run in front of their car with no warning and the young Danish woman driving hit her. The child was taken to hospital, but was pronounced dead on arrival. Lars asked for prayers for the family of the girl and for their workers. Stunned silence, coughs, a muffled sob, and the sound of quiet crying rippled through the congregation. I managed, in a choked voice, to pray for the family of the little girl and for the young Danish workers. Someone was going to be in jail that night and maybe many nights thereafter.

Suddenly, losing water and electricity didn’t seem a priority. A child killed in a road accident sobered my mind. Death will do that to a person. Happens all the time. Daily problems that annoy and frustrate become insignificant in the face of death. And what about the young Danish man and woman? We all could nod our heads in understanding at what they must be going through. Every expat who navigates the roads in Ethiopia knows the fear of hitting a pedestrian. That is why Ethiopian drivers are in demand. No one wants the agony of being responsible for the death of a person. And no one wants to fall into the hands of the law where everything is dragged out over long periods of time.

I found out that the young woman did stay overnight in the jail but with company. Another young Ethiopian woman, a member of the Mekane Yesus Church, tried to convince the officials to take her instead to go to jail over night, but when the request was turned down she asked to accompany the young Danish woman, which they granted. Instead of a holding cell, they let them stay in an office, also a blessing. The Mekane Yesus Church officials are working with their Danish Lutheran counterparts to deal with the situation. The Danish young man and woman both had plane tickets to fly to Denmark on Dec. 13 but now that won’t happen. (update: it will happen! The Danish twosome is flying out tonight. She will have to return in February for a court date. She is being charged with vehicular homicide with a fine up to $600 and a jail term of possibly 1-5 years. The family of the little girl has been most gracious in understanding that it was an accident and there was nothing she could have done to avoid the 5 year old, who ran out on the road at the very last moment. We are praying for the family and the Danish young lady and the mission).

I still will get annoyed by the water and the electricity being shut off at a moment’s notice. But my family is safe and sound and, Lord willing, that will continue throughout our time here. I am grateful for the blessings that have come our way; new friends and neighbours, a job that is very meaningful and a once-in-a-lifetime experience for our daughters that they are experiencing; joys and sorrows alike. Life is rich.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

What we are doing



People have been asking what our job is like and what we are doing. I know that moving to Ethiopia sounds exotic and exciting, and it often is. But much of the work is administrative and relational. It is interesting but going to the office (which is the building next door in this same compound) is often just like going to the office in my previous work. But there are differences so here is a synopsis so far:

Personnel – That would be us, the Amstutz 5, and Tamara Hayes. That’s it (for the moment anyways). MCC Ethiopia is mostly projects and programs, very few North American MCC people on the ground. But we are hoping that will change. Tamara is teaching next door at the local school. She was a SALT’er last year and has extended to become an MCC worker.

We do have an MCC Ethiopian staff which do a great job for MCC. There is Yeshiareg (or “Yeshi”) who is our bookkeeper/secretary. She is currently in the U.S. for a family wedding and will be back in mid-December. We miss her, not only for her expertise but her quiet, solid presence. She knows people in the neighborhood, our programs and who needs what. The office phone has been mostly quiet since she left. Once people knew she wasn’t here, they stopped calling (which is good because we can’t converse in Amharic so all we can say is yellechim, she isn’t here).

Mekonnen is our long time Program Manager who is something of a ‘renaissance man’. You need some basic wiring or plumbing done? Mekonnen will do it. What about talking with top leadership with our partner, Meserete Kristos Church? They all know Mekonnen and he knows the church politics. Do you need a bunny cage built? Mekonnen knows a carpenter who can do it. Who do we call on when we need background on programs we are running or the history of some partners? That would be Mekonnen. Vehicles are breaking down, Mekonnen will get them repaired. I need a work permit, Mekonnen will deal with government officials. The list goes on and on . . .

Then there is our friend Assefa. Assefa has been the MCC go-fer for about 5 years. He retired from his profession (foreman in construction) and wanted something to do and MCC hired him for twice a week (Tues. & Thurs.) to get the mail, go to the bank, and run various and sundry errands. He also helps with tasks around the compound. He is currently helping us get new screens for our windows. We also have the 5 guards who watch our compound day and night. By day there is one guard and by night we have two guards. The guards have their own schedule and Abebe is the senior guard who does the scheduling. Communication is pretty basic since we don’t speak Amharic and they don’t speak English (mostly greetings).

Yeshi the housekeeper works from 8-4, five days a week. She does all our cleaning; floors, dishes, laundry, rooms. She also makes lunch and supper when we have recipes and ideas for her. All those untidy beds are tidied up by mid-morning, the bathrooms and kitchen are all cleaned up by mid-day as well. A helper, Alem, comes 2x a week to help clean our offices and help Yeshi with the ‘big clean’ on Thursday of our house (beating the big rugs, vacuuming and dusting, and cleaning the bathrooms). And there you have our personnel.

Programs/Projects – “What kind of work does MCC do?” is the oft asked question.

We work with food security, HIV/AIDS, Education, Community Development, Women and Peace issues. We are a mostly a funding agency at this moment. That is, we work with partners who are in the field doing the work and we provide funds for their programs. We have over 20 different programs and partners we work with so allow me to offer a couple of examples of what we are doing.

Food security – We partner with Meserete Kristos Church in a number of programs. MKC is our ‘sister’ church to the Mennonite Church. We are working on big project in a southern province called South Nationalities & Nations Peoples (SNNP). Western Ethiopia is home to mountainous regions many of which are, sadly, denuded of all trees. At one time the mountains were forested but as the population grew and the poor people needed the wood to live, the trees were cut down. During the rainy season (June through September) the good soil is washed away as there is nothing to hold it in place. Soil erosion makes for some sad looking brown hills with washed out gullies everywhere. So MCC, with MKC’s Relief and Development Agency (RDA) instituted a Cash-for-Work project which helped the locals make money and do good to the environment. The local community built holding ponds and rock walls to prevent water from rushing down the mountainsides.

In just 3 years the hillsides are now covered with grassland and small trees, thus preventing the soil from washing away. The cash helped them invest in their own “mutual funds” which they call “Equbs”. This traditional savings plan has 6-8 households pooling a ‘tithing’ of their resources which is then given to one household at a time. This allows that household to buy an animal, like a cow, sheep, goat or chickens which is then raised as livestock. The equity is in livestock. So herds have grown in households in Boricha in just 3 years. It has been a success even recognized by the Ethiopian government. In August RDA was awarded the “green award” for the Boricha project over 200 other NGO’s in the region. MCC also partnered with Canadian Food Grains Bank (CFGB) on this project and it was they who provided the funding of over $600,000. We are seeing the fruits of all who labored long and hard on this project.

HIV/AIDS – We also work with MKC with their AIDS Prevention Office (APO) which works with their churches all around the country. A couple of months ago Wanda and I attended a day gathering of churches who have HIV/AIDS orphan clubs. Ten MKC churches each chose a dozen orphan kids (that is, a child who has lost a mother, father or both to the disease, not that they have the disease) to attend this all day affair of fun and fellowship. The kids played games, listened attentively to sketches of Bible stories, were prayed over, enjoyed a full meal of injera and wat (the national dish of Ethiopia), and played sports. Churches go into the communities with volunteers looking for kids who are on the street or without a home and reach out to these orphans by bringing them to church. The kids are surrounded with love and taught the love of God. The volunteers minister to their physical needs and try to find a foster home for them as well. What a privilege it was for Wanda and I to observe the work these volunteers are doing and it is all being funded through the MCC Generations At Risk (GAR) Program that specializes in helping those with HIV/AIDS around the world.

Peace – This is an exciting new ‘pushing out the margins’ of MCC’s borders. MCC has been developing peacebuilding throughout Africa in this century and there are 2 regional peace workers on the ground right now; Carl Stauffer for Southern Africa and Gopar Tapkida for Western Africa. Here in Eastern Africa we await an appointment of a peace worker with eager anticipation. Nevertheless peace work is happening here. MCC has a special Peace fund that gives money for projects around the world. Here in Ethiopia we have already tapped this fund to deal with situations like the one in Jimma, a city to the south west of Addis. Tension between religious communities, particularly Christian and Muslim, exploded in violence with fighting between factions. People were killed, property was destroyed. MCC was invited in by invitation of MKC, which had some churches that were on the receiving end of some of the violence, to do conflict and reconciliation work. Mekonnen was joined by Gopar Tapkida and did workshops and seminars for the leaders and the community. The amazing thing was that for the first time the different faith communities starting talking to each other instead of past each other. There was genuine reconciliation, what a great use of the MCC Peace Fund!

Education – We fund a few education programs but we also do some staffing. MCC helps fund Carl & Vera Hansen in their positions at the MKC Bible College. We also have Tamara placed at the local elementary school as an English teacher. A SALT’er has been placed there for 4 years now (Tamara is in her second year there, now as an MCC service worker) and the school has gone from being on the brink of closing to being awarded top prize for student testing within our sub-city area—about 30 schools! The turn around began at the same time we placed a SALT’er there. There is some prestige in having a “Ferenji” (white foreigner) teaching in a school so what once was an ignored school has become a magnet for students. We also have provided small scholarships to students our local community which gives them a chance to go to the school (a 75 Birr scholarship, about $8, allows a child to buy needed school supplies and a required uniform). We share a common wall with the school grounds so we can hear the bells ring and the students at play throughout the day. It feels good to know that MCC has made a difference in the life of the students and the school.

Community Development – We partner to do several of these programs as well but one that is near and dear to our heart is an MCC Global Family Project program. Our friends, Ghash Alemu (“Honorable” Alemu) and Ato (Mr.) Sammy lead the Remember the Poorest Community (RPC, look it up on the MCC website) which is helping a very poor section of Nazret (a town about 90 minutes SE of Addis). The unemployment rate is high, the poverty rate is high, school attendance is low and with inflation outpacing wages the squeeze on all families is quite hard. This program provides special schooling for street children. They take on 100 children a year with a chance to turn their lives around. They are given all the basic necessities of life; food, clothing and most importantly job training. This is their chance to get out of the street life. The results have been encouraging. The local community has embraced them and trust RPC to do the right thing. Unfortunately, this year another major donor suddenly cut off funding without warning and they are suddenly struggling to pay their bills. The reason has to do with some shenanigans by a former middleman who has absconded with NGO funding and accused them of corruption. Their books are in order, independent reviews have shown. But right now they are hurting financially. If you are looking for a good cause to help for Christmas, RPC is a good cause.

Relationships – MCC is a partner to many NGO’s, we don’t actually do the work, we partner with folks who do. It reminds me of the old BASF commercial which said, we don’t make the stuff you use but our technology makes the stuff you use better. The middleman who makes good things better. So the NGO’s (mostly Ethiopian) bring us proposals and we offer the expertise of MCC and the funding to the partners. One of our most important relationships is with Meserete Kristos Church. They have a variety of programs (a few stated earlier) and we see our partnership with them as unique and special. They are the sister church to the Mennonite Church in North America and we find a kinship in working with them. It is a proud fact that they are independent and able to stand on their own in financing their own internal church programs but we are happy to assist with programs where we share a common goal, such as the issues stated above; food security, HIV/AIDS, peace, women empowerment, education, etc.

So there is an overview and that is just a glimpse of the programs we work with! I hope that in the future I can focus on specific projects from time to time to give you a taste of the good work that is being done. Rest assured, I can see in my mind thousands of folks who donate time and money to work on MCC Relief Sales, the Canning Project, Material Goods as well as those who make the crafts and quilts for the Relief Sales, every time we hand out funds to orphans, poor school children, farmers in poverty in the southern hills of Boricha. For me the connection makes a complete circle of MCC, a beautiful circle. May the circle remain unbroken . . .

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

A Note from Wanda



We were driving out the road from the airport and the taxi driver points forward. “Do you see the giraffe?” he asks me. Sure enough, there in the distance stands a beautiful long-necked giraffe. I’m not in Ethiopia anymore.

Last week I had my first opportunity to see Nairobi. The airport does indeed back up on a wildlife preserve and one can spot animals on occasion. Also on the way from the airport I spotted these very large birds that looked familiar but I couldn’t place. I asked my taxi driver what they were. “Those are storks,” he says. Ah yes, all those Disney cartoons and images from books came back to me. That’s why they looked so familiar. I hadn’t actually seen a real one before. There must have been around 10 of them sitting in the tree. I spotted no babies though. It must be the quiet season.

I went to Nairobi to attend a meeting of the East Africa MCC Reps and two of the leaders from Mennonite World Conference, Larry Miller and Danisa Ndlovu. MCC and MWC are endeavoring to take advantage of opportunities to hear of each other’s work and continue building relationships. We spent a number of hours talking about our work in country with the various Anabaptist-related indigenous churches. We also spent some time talking about the one exchange program that MCC and MWC share ownership of: YAMEN. This is a south to south, church to church exchange program. It was good to make these connections.

Another bonus for me was to see Kenya for the first time and to have some time to spend with my colleagues. Cathy Bowman and her husband, Jim, are the reps for Kenya. Jim was out on a field visit so I spent a day with Cathy seeing the MCC Kenya offices, visiting a Global Family project and talking about all things MCC. I felt very fortunate to have a chance to talk with someone who has been doing this job longer than I have and to share our joys and struggles. I’m glad I had a chance to see how another office operates and got some ideas of things Doug and I could do to improve the way we have things organized. I also had some time to talk with Mike. He and his wife, Maguay, are reps in Tanzania. Spending time with colleagues is both motivating and refreshing.

Nairobi has a wonderful Mennonite Guest House run by EMM. I had the opportunity to stay there while in Nairobi. It is a very peaceful place to spend a couple of days. The grounds are beautifully groomed and, once again, the flowers in this part of Africa are astounding. I found myself able to take a deep breath in this little oasis. As you go through the gates into the guest house the world just seems to spin a little slower. I enjoyed my time there and look forward to returning on our next trip to Nairobi.

Although the wait times were long, the flights there and back went smoothly, for which I am thankful. I was also thankful for my husband there to greet me on my return as well as the hugs from my little girls the next morning. Back in Ethiopia —to familiar sights and sounds and, best of all, my family.

The Amstutz Sisters’ Trio

And now for something completely different, blogs from the rest of the family! I am happy to take a rest (but you’ll hear from me a bit later). -- Doug



Amani: Hi! In school we are doing a project. We are talking about the Middle East in school so we are each doing research on a country in the Middle East. My country is South Yemen, and a girl in my class named Julia is doing North Yemen. But we were surprised when one day I was looking in my research and it said on March 22, 1990 the two countries, North Yemen and South Yemen were united!

Now back to the projects, almost everyone in the class is doing a country in the Middle East but, Miss Root (our teacher) ran out of countries in the Middle East to give out, so we had to do some countries that aren’t in the Middle East. For example, Abby (my sister) is doing Bangladesh because there wasn’t any more countries from the Middle East left.

Well today is Sunday November 18 and we are planning on inviting Abby’s friend Mie (Mi-a, that’s how it sounds) over to our house today. So far we have 4 pets. Abby has a bunny, Sophia has two dogs (a puppy and dog) as you may know the dog’s name is Coca, and as you may know the puppy’s name is Peanut. But the sad thing is Coca doesn’t like Peanut at all but she (Peanut) seems to really like Coca and Coca is Peanut’s uncle. Coca is Peanut’s uncle because Coca has a sister and his sister (who lives with our office worker) had the puppies including Peanut. So Coca is Peanut's uncle. We’ve been teaching Peanut to go up the stairs and she learned it pretty fast! But since she’s still really small, it takes her a while to get up even one stair.

Our fourth pet is our turtle he’s really slow and is to share. We are soon planning to get another bunny for Abby and a kitten for me, because I don’t have any pets yet and Sophia has two and Abby’s going on her second bunny.

To change the subject, On movie and chocolate night (Friday) we watched: Bridge To Terabithia. It’s a wonderful story about your imagination. A girl named Leslie takes Jess (a boy) and they go to Terabithia. But they have to imagine Terabithia because it’s not actually real. But boy can Leslie imagine, with Jess’s help they create a whole new world! Leslie then names it Terabithia. In the movie they have to go through many dangers. For example, the “squogers” (half squirrel half hoger. Hoger is a mean guy in their class) and there was also falcons that would screech “dead meat”! But you should really watch it, because it’s a lot better when you watch it. Well I’ll go now, Bye!

Abby: Hello! My favorite animal is a horse!(or of course, foal!) We all love animals and nature! Because everything deserves to live. Before we moved to Ethiopia we had a cat named Salom but we usually would call her Sal. She was fat (very fat!) and very, very lazy! And very heavy to carry! But she is very cute and easy to love! Now we are going to our new house, at our new house so far we have a turtle that my dad named Yurtle (I think because it rhymes!) And a bunny named Cindy, a boy. Which is mine and I am also getting another bunny.

Amani is going to get a kitten as soon as possible, and we were hoping to get a kitten before another bunny but we seem to not be able to find one! So I’m going to get another bunny first because there’s a sales of them every month so I can get a girl bunny now so they can mate and I can sell them at my school Bingham academy! Also, Sophia just got a puppy from our office worker! It is sooooo cute and its name is Peanut. Well Sophia will tell you more about her! By the way on Friday we watched a movie called: Bridge to Terabithia. It was a great movie! You should try watching it sometime! I was always begging to watch it, and then finally we got to watch it on movie and chocolate night! It was sooooo fun! Well gotta Go!

Sophia: Hi its me Sophia. As you heard I got a puppy named peanut! Today it is sunny and i am making a house out of blankets!!! I am pretending that peanut is my watchdog! well that is all I want to say. bye

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Peanut

She is so young that she is just beginning to toddle around. She comes from a dysfunctional family where the mother neglected her and her siblings. Not being housebroken, she pees and poops at will. She is so small that she can almost fit into the palm of my hand. And she has become the love of the household.

Peanut is a puppy, 5 weeks old and her owner is Sophia. Peanut is peanut-brown with white and black markings. Her tail is black with the tip white. Her legs and feet are stocking white with a white chest and ring around the neck. The ears are tipped black. Her button-black nose is wreathed in white. Her short, little legs seem barely able to support barrel like body.

Sophia got Peanut last Sunday (Nov. 4) from our secretary/bookkeeper Yeshi, whose dog seemed overwhelmed by the responsibilities of another litter. The girls were arriving home from a weekend of camping in tents by the shores of Lake Lagano and Yeshi was leaving for the U.S. in hours and would be gone until mid-December. It was now or never to pick up Peanut. So we went to Yeshi’s family home and Sophia took the one of 4 wriggling little bodies that she had already chosen in a previous visit.

Many of you know that Sophia has been wishing for a puppy for a long, long time, way back to St. Catharines. Wanda and I had told the girls that we would allow pets if we would go to Ethiopia with MCC. That seemed to make a big difference in our girls’ minds as to whether they would be agreeable to go with us to Addis Ababa. So we are on our way to having an animal farm. Besides the one ‘guard’ dog (Coca) and one turtle (now named “Yertle the Turtle”), we have added a bunny named Cinderella, a puppy named Peanut and in the future there will likely be another bunny and a kitten for Amani.

Oh, it was a happy night in the Amstutz household. The girls were excited and, of course, Sophia was all aglow. The little tyke really is a peanut in size, when she wags her tail her whole body shakes. Of course she shakes for just about anything; fear, joy, hunger, pain, cold, love . . . we could have called her Quaker . . .

We’ve had our ‘baby bouts’ with Peanut already this first week; yipping and crying from the kitchen throughout the first two nights, puddles of pee and poop on the floor (I know, I know; I have always said I wouldn’t allow a dog in the house, but this little thing can’t handle outside at night yet . . .), a bout of constipation which worried Wanda and I, and Peanut walking into a grassy area with army ants, which caused much yelping and howling in pain until we extracted every ant on her little body. What next?


So here’s a photo of wee little Peanut and some very big admirers (well, a whole household of charmed dog lovers).

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Ethiopia: From an article in The Economist

I have been looking for something to summarize what is happening in Ethiopia these days and this article from the UK magazine The Economist is just such an article. It presents both the good and the bad of the current situation. I shall warn you that it is a bit long so you may judge if you want to read it. I don't plan to do this again in the foreseeable future, I'll stick with what is happening to the Amstutz', but since we are experiencing much of this I wanted to give you a taste . . .

A brittle Western ally in the Horn of Africa

Nov. 1st 2007

While things are getting better in much of Africa, Ethiopia risks getting left behind

AFP

AS AMERICA surveys the map of eastern Africa, it finds little to take comfort from. Somalia is in anarchy, riven by competing warlords and a haven for Islamist militants. Sudan is involved in the bloody suppression of blacks in its western region, Darfur. Both countries are deaf to outside complaints and seem chronically unstable. America is thinking of putting Eritrea, briefly a beacon of hope after it split from Ethiopia in 1993, on its list of countries that sponsor terrorism. But between that grim trio stands Ethiopia, America's hope.

This ancient country has become an essential ally of America in the “war on terror”. Last year Ethiopia invaded Somalia in support of a UN-backed transitional federal government, which had been threatened with jihad by the Union of Islamic Courts (UIC) that had taken over Mogadishu, the capital. The Americans joined in, giving vital intelligence, to catch al-Qaeda people whom the UIC was sheltering. These men, it believed, were responsible for the bombings of the American embassies in Kenya and Tanzania in 1998, killing more than 220 people.

The West and Ethiopia are co-operating closely against the Islamist threat in the Horn of Africa, which threatens the coast of Kenya and Tanzania as well. It is alleged that Ethiopia is a destination for prisoners interrogated under the CIA's “extraordinary rendition” programme. Certainly the Bush administration has been unstinting in its praise of Meles Zenawi, the prime minister. It has also vilified Ethiopia's neighbour and mortal enemy, Eritrea, which it accuses, among other things, of arming and funding the Somali Islamists.

Mr. Zenawi won the West's friendship, too, for his efforts to tackle Ethiopia's deep poverty. These have met with some success—so much so that Tony Blair has put Mr. Zenawi in the vanguard of an “African Renaissance”. But Ethiopia's upward track as development poster-child and dependable ally was rudely interrupted in 2005. That year's presidential and parliamentary elections were marred by mass killings on the streets of the capital. Police fired on opposition supporters and others who were protesting against what they claimed were rigged elections. Tens of thousands, including journalists and NGO workers as well as opposition activists, were rounded up in a general dragnet; many spent weeks, or months, in prison without charge. Opposition leaders were accused of hugely inflated crimes, such as high treason and genocide. Seventy-one of them were freed only last summer, after having to sign a letter admitting their part in inciting violent protests.

These events shattered the West's cosy image of the modernising, progressive Mr. Zenawi. Appalled Western governments abruptly switched off direct financial support to the Ethiopian government, though aid has been resumed through indirect channels. And an anti-Zenawi lobby, largely funded by the big Ethiopian diaspora in America, now issues a stream of anti-government criticism from the United States. A few weeks ago the House of Representatives passed a bill condemning Ethiopia's human-rights record and pledging money to help opposition politics. Though it stands almost no chance of becoming law, it shows that Ethiopia is now a subject of fierce controversy.

On six cents a day
Ethiopia likes to do things differently. In September it started celebrating the new millennium (see picture above), more than seven years after everybody else. The country has been out of step in this respect since 1582: while the rest of the Christian world changed to the revised Gregorian calendar, Ethiopia stuck to the Julian. It also still keeps its own time, measured in 12-hour cycles rather than 24-hour ones.

Uniquely in Africa, Ethiopia was never really colonised by Europeans. But its singular history has been a curse as much as a blessing. As the rest of Africa decolonised and modernised, albeit fitfully, after the second world war, Ethiopia remained stuck fast in a feudal fantasy presided over by a diminutive emperor, Haile Selassie. He was deposed only in 1974, by which time the modern world had largely passed Ethiopia by and the country had become known for poverty and famine. It still is.

Ethiopia was further damaged by the committee of military officers, known as the Derg, that overthrew the emperor. That regime degenerated into a “red terror” of gulags and summary executions; it also lost an expensive, wasteful war with Tigrayan and Eritrean separatists over what would become, in 1993, the new country of Eritrea. The Derg produced the dreadful famines of 1984-85, the first to be alleviated mainly by the efforts of Bob Geldof and a phalanx of rock stars.

Since the early 1990s, however, Ethiopia has recovered somewhat under Mr. Zenawi. Signs of that are evident on the big, pristine campus of the University of Arba Minch, more than 500km (311 miles) south of Ethiopia's capital, Addis Ababa. The university's president, Tarekegn Tadesse, has welcomed 8,000 students this term, a huge number for an obscure provincial town of 50,000-odd people. The crowd of freshmen, he says, testifies to the government's rapid expansion of tertiary education; in the case of Arba Minch, enrolment has increased fourfold in seven years.

It is an inspiring story. The new university buildings springing up all over the south are tangible evidence that the aid and development money pumped into Ethiopia reaches the people it is meant to. Roads are clearly being built, funded largely by the Chinese; schools and water-treatment plants are being opened. And there are few complaints of corruption, a fact that continues to make Ethiopia popular with foreign donors.

Some of the results are encouraging, too. Infant mortality is said to have dropped from 141 per 1,000 live births in 2000 to 123 per 1,000 in 2005; over 70% of children are now in school, and access to clean water has more than doubled in ten years. Furthermore, the government can point to the rapid expansion of a few sectors in what is still mostly an agricultural economy. The great volcanic lakes of the Rift Valley south of the capital are now ringed by vast flower farms, mainly exporting to Europe. Flowers earn the country about $88m in exports annually, creating some 50,000 jobs in the past few years.

Yet despite this, after almost a decade of well-intentioned development policies, Ethiopians remain mired in the most wretched poverty. Officially, about 80% of them live on less than $2 a day. Often it is a lot less than that. An area like Sidama, in the south, looks green, tropical and improbably fertile, but existence there can be precarious. One foreign charity, Action Contre la Faim, recently found that the average cash income for households in one area was six cents a day. Shocked researchers concluded that the depth of poverty there was “far beyond what had previously been thought”.

Visiting the nearby villages confirms these cold statistics. In Garbicho Lela, high up in the hills, a nurse estimates that 13% of children are severely malnourished. The one shop in the village betrays the low level of economic activity; on the weekly market day, when over 500 people will walk for hours from the surrounding hill-villages to sell a few things, the shop will do only about 200 birrs ($23) of business. On an average day, it sells two Pepsis. After three years of good rains, aid workers reckon that the risk of severe food shortages has, for the moment, receded. But so marginal are the reserves of food and money here that one bad season could still spell disaster.

The fact is that for all the aid money and Chinese loans coming in, Ethiopia's economy is neither growing fast enough nor producing enough jobs. The number of jobs created by flowers is insignificant beside an increase in population of about 2m a year, one of the fastest rates in Africa. Since every mother has about seven children, it is conceivable that Ethiopia, with 75m-plus people today, could overtake Nigeria (now 140m-strong) as Africa's most populous country by mid-century. Just to stand still, let alone make inroads into poverty, the country must produce hundreds of thousands of jobs a year.

It is hard to see where they will come from. The government claims that the economy has been growing at an impressive 10% a year since 2003-04, but the real figure is probably more like 5-6%, which is little more than the average for sub-Saharan Africa. And even that modestly improved rate, with a small building boom in Addis Ababa, for instance, has led to the overheating of the economy, with inflation moving up to 19% earlier this year before the government took remedial action.

The reasons for this economic crawl are not hard to find. Beyond the government-directed state, funded substantially by foreign aid, there is—almost uniquely in Africa—virtually no private-sector business at all. The IMF estimates that in 2005-06 the share of private investment in the country was just 11%, nearly unchanged since Mr. Zenawi took over in the early 1990s. That is partly a reflection of the fact that, despite some privatisation since the centralised Marxist days of the Derg, large areas of the economy remain government monopolies, closed off to private business.

Jobs for the boys
This is where Ethiopia misses out badly. Take telecoms. While the rest of Africa has been virtually transformed in just a few years by a revolution in mobile telephony, Ethiopia stumbles along with its inept and useless government-run services. Everywhere else, a plethora of South African, home-grown and European providers has leapt into the market to provide Africans with an extraordinary array of cheaper and more efficient services, now used even by the poorest of farmers, for instance, to check spot prices for agricultural goods in markets miles away. And the mobile-phone revolution has created thousands of new livelihoods; at times it seems as if every boy on a street corner is hawking a top-up card. Not in Ethiopia.

It is the same story in financial services, where, despite the growth of some smaller private banks, no foreign banks are allowed. Micro-finance schemes have expanded exponentially, but it remains almost impossible to find start-up loans for small or medium businesses.

There is no official unemployment rate, but youth unemployment, some experts reckon, may be as high as 70%. All those graduates coming out of state-run universities will find it very hard to get jobs. The mood of the young is often restless and despairing; many dream of moving abroad. It was this mood of resentment that the opposition tapped into in 2005, and the capital's maybe 300,000 unemployed young men proved a combustible force on the streets. The ruling party, the Ethiopian People's Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF), underestimated the degree of disillusion with its policies, and thus overreacted when the opposition polled much better than expected.

Unless the private sector is allowed to create jobs, the country's problems will continue to mount and the gains of development may be squandered. Sooner rather than later, 2m more people a year will overwhelm a state that is trying to provide most of the jobs itself.

The fractious tribes
Economic failings are Ethiopia's biggest long-term challenge; but its worst short-term problems are political. Just as the government is slowing the pace of economic expansion for fear that individuals may accumulate wealth and independence, so it is failing to move fast enough from a one-party state to a modern, pluralist democracy. Again, the reason may be that it is afraid to.

The difficulties stem partly from the country's ethnic make-up. Mr. Zenawi and the ruling elite are Tigrayans, from the north, a group that is only about 7% of the population. The Oromos, mainly in the centre and south, comprise 40% of the population and provide most of the country's food; but they feel excluded from its economic gains. The Amharas, comprising about 22%, are traditionally Ethiopia's educated ruling class, providing the leadership both of the Derg and of Haile Selassie's empire. The main opposition party in 2005, the Coalition for Unity and Democracy (CUD), was largely Amharic; they resent the ascendancy of the Tigrayans. And in the south-east Ogaden region are Muslim Somalis, who have more in common with neighbouring Somalia than with the remote Tigrayans.

At one time or another, most of these ethnic groups have pursued secessionist ambitions at the expense of a greater Ethiopia. The government, to its credit, must have thought that it had drawn much of the poison of ethnic competition by introducing a new federal constitution in 1994, with many powers devolved to the regions, and by accepting the independence of Eritrea in 1993.

But recent events have reignited the threat of ethnic, and thus political, instability. The turmoil in Somalia has led to a reawakening of the Ogaden National Liberation Front, which in April killed 74 workers, including nine Chinese, at an oil-exploration camp; the week before last it claimed to have killed 250 government soldiers in a gun battle. Some of its leaders want to be part of a greater Islamist Somalia, and are probably being helped by the Islamist militias there. The Oromo Liberation Front (OLF) also continues to be active; though its military activities are disavowed by most Oromos, many sympathise with the broad aim of getting a better deal for Oromia. The CUD is leading the battle across the Atlantic against Mr. Zenawi's rule, and Eritrea has tried to stoke each uprising, supplying arms to the Oromo rebels and even playing host to its leaders in Asmara, the Eritrean capital.

Unfortunately, despite all the talk of ethnic federalism, the government has chosen to crack down severely on what it sees as direct threats to Ethiopia's integrity. This, in turn, sparks more opposition. The Ethiopian army has made it increasingly difficult to get into the Ogaden region, virtually one-fifth of the country; even NGOs such as Médecins Sans Frontières have been struggling to provide help there. Oromo leaders complain of continuing discrimination against them; one of them estimates that as many as 10,000 Oromo sympathisers have, over the years, been rounded up and put in prisons across the country. Hundreds of those were university and school teachers arrested for giving civic-education classes that stressed Oromo issues—inciting protests, claimed the government.

Bulcha Demeksa, an MP and leader of a minority Oromo party, the Oromo Federalist Democratic Movement, complains that in the past three months thousands more Oromos, many of them his own supporters, have been thrown into prison. He says that the government wants to extinguish any independent opposition outside the government-sponsored official Oromo party, the Oromo People's Democratic Organisation (OPDO). Many Oromos claim it is impossible to get state jobs in Oromia, such as teaching, unless they join the OPDO; farmers complain that they do not get fertiliser unless they join it.

Human Rights Watch, a New York-based lobby group, says that “while this government is an improvement over its predecessor [the Derg], its human-rights record is nonetheless extremely grim.” The government has also become highly sensitive to criticism. The Committee to Protect Journalists estimates that only Zimbabwe has produced more exiled journalists since 2001, though Eritrea is much fiercer at curbing the freedom of the press.

The Ethiopian government's efforts at political control are supported by a wide network of informers and secret police. Critics say it is exploiting the jihadist terror threat to link many legitimate opposition campaigners and supporters with terrorist groups and take them off the streets. The threats from Eritrea, where a new border war could erupt at any time, and the Islamists in Somalia are real. But at this rate, argues Mr. Demeksa, “the ethnic groups are on a collision course.”

It does not have to come to that. Many people are working tirelessly to bridge the differences. But if such tensions are not eased and the lack of jobs and opportunities not addressed, Ethiopia's future could get much bumpier. In that case, its friendship in a dangerously volatile region would be of little use to the West.

Here is a link to the original article.


http://www.economist.com/displaystory.cfm?story_id=10062658&CFID=24853571&CFTOKEN=38724573

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Homeward Bound

Oh Canada, you were beautiful in the light of an October Sunday afternoon. The warm Autumn sun shone in a clear blue sky making it feel like late August/early September. And I am leaving today on a jet plane . . .

I was escorted to Pearson International Airport by friends (thanks Lyn & Ken!) where Terminal 1 gleamed new and impressive. The high rounded white ceiling reminded me of a cross of Quonset hut and a classic railroad station. Light and airy. I got in line to get my ticket and check my 2 bags and box. Too much weight, it would cost me. I tried to get the airline hostess to forgive some of the weight and in the end she overlooked about 5 kgs. At least it was something. I said good-bye to Ken & Lyn went into the international departure area.

Nice area to shop, eat and use the free wi-fi (way to go Pearson!). It allowed me a quick email and to check on the scores. The sunshine was shining brightly into the terminal. Well designed, convenient and well built. The scene was orderly, peaceful and spoke of good government . . .

The time came for us to board the Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt. The flight wasn’t full so many of us could spread out. As we lifted into the western sky, into the sun I could look down and see the city of Toronto. I could see the 401 below like a long ribbon. As the jet airliner slowly turned east we could see the skyline of the downtown core. The city was beautiful in the afternoon Autumn sun, the late-in-the-year angle gave it a warm glow. We rose ever higher flying over the northern shore of Lake Ontario. The many lakes to the north of the city were visible. As we flew eastward the night came on at a fast pace, the palette of sky colours turned from shades of brilliant yellow into mellow orange, into deep purple then into the blackness of night. On the ground the towns slowly became lit, clusters of lights popped on everywhere. Was that Montreal as I looked down? I couldn’t be sure but it was about where the pilot said it would be.

After that I stopped looking out the window. Dinner came and went. They had a vegetarian dish, lasagna, available and I gratefully chose it. Airline food isn’t all that bad these days, except for meat, an uneven proposition at best. Then many folks settled into watching their own personal viewing screens or trying to close their eyes for the overnight trip across the Atlantic. I did a little of both. I watched the beginning and end of The Simpsons Movie and dozed through the middle. I find it hard to sleep on flights. It’s like sleeping in hospitals, there is always someone or something waking you up. So I settled on a dozen catnaps.

We landed safely in Frankfurt at 6:30 a.m. local time, which was just past midnight by my internal clock. I knew the routine by now; wait patiently as passengers disembarked one by one, from the warmth of the cabin to the cool morning air go into the waiting shuttle bus, arrive at some distant terminal and try to find where my next departure gate is. I first looked around the duty-free area where all the shops were. From alcohol and tobacco to reading material and candies with perfumes and electronics crowding shelves as well.

Eventually I looked for the big “I” for information and was pointed in the right direction. Down long corridors I walked until I found the shuttle train that would take me out to the gate where I needed to be. When I got out there I realized that I was in a veritable dead end wing with nothing to do but sit. No stores to shop in, but that’s ok, no temptation either. It had restrooms and that was sufficient. As I waited I decided to see if there was free wi-fi at this international airport. I found several wi-fi sources, including one that said ‘free public wi-fi’ but all of them proved unavailable. One needed to pay or to have a password, I didn’t want to pay and I didn’t have access to a password. So I sat and read and waited.

The second leg of the flight (Frankfurt-Khartoum-Addis Ababa) went well. The plane was mostly full but not sold out. I was joined in the 2 window seats (Airbuses have a 2-5-2 arrangement, as opposed to the Boeing 3-3-3 seating, which I prefer, especially if I am stuck with a middle row seat) by a man who spoke English with a thick accent so neither of us talked during most of the trip. In the light of midday I saw parts of Europe below. In the mountainous terrain below I was gratified to see the Alps were snow covered, Switzerland was still as it should be. The snow line stopped suddenly and gave way to brown mountains, I guessed I was looking at the Italian Alps. Soon we were flying down the western coast of Italy with the Mediterranean below and the outline of land off in the distance. We flew over Sicily and back over the sea again and I lost interest.

The next time I looked I saw way below what looked like snowed covered desert, the Sahara looked white but I knew that could not be. But at 37,000 feet the endless tracks of sand in the afternoon sun looked like it had been hit with a snow storm. Eventually in the late afternoon we began our descent to Khartoum and the desert looked brown and dry as it should. What would it take to revive all that wasted space, I wondered. What if global warming suddenly started dumping lots of rain over the Sahara, the Sahel of Africa? Would the desert spring to life like a vision of Ezekiel?

We spent over an hour on the ground getting refueled. I said good-bye to my seatmate. We started talking at the end and I found out that he was from Italy, near Venice, and he was working for a company in Sudan, making rolled sheet metal. He had worked all over the world as a consultant, helping to start companies in some cases; Venezuela, Jordan, etc. But now he was just playing out the string, looking at the end goal of 3 more years until retirement. His wife and daughter were living in Italy and he visited every 3 months. And that’s the way it is, he shrugged. He liked his job, he liked the people he was working with now and the pay was ok. He probably could do better buy why start over somewhere else when things were working out here? After we said good-bye to each other I got up and stretched. About one-third to one-half the passengers left and no one came on board, there would be lots of room for the final, short leg of the journey.

The last 2 hours of flight was in the dark and uneventful. We were given cellophane wrapped sandwiches which were pretty good. The Germans can make good sandwiches at least (hearty ‘voll-korn’ bread is a good start). Soon the lights of Addis came into view, I was almost home. I tried to guess, by the directions of the street lights, what we were flying over but was never sure until we had almost landed. I figured out the Ring Road just as we were landing, the road I was going to take back to the MCC compound, back to where my little family waited silently for me . . .

The landing went well. I was grateful for a safe flight. As I get older I tend to think about all the things that could go wrong in flight and have to have an internal argument over and over about the general safety of air transportation. No need to voice those concerns, it only alarms one’s family and unnerves fellow passengers. So I quietly say a prayer of thanks and disembark.

Next stop was the customs’ line-up. The queue wasn’t too bad for 9 p.m. at night and I got through in 15 minutes. I stood around with the rest of the group waiting for luggage. As people got their luggage and the crowd dwindled, I became uneasy, did my 2 suitcases and box make it? Another worry about flying (albeit much less traumatic) is losing luggage, there are horror stories out there. But eventually the conveyor belt spewed out my stuff, to my relief. I had a safe trip, I had all my luggage, my ears were fine (a common malady for me when I fly is my ears hurt from the change in pressure upon landing as well as the inability to hear; ‘swimmer’s ear’ in the air). One last hurdle, standing in line to wait for our bags to be x-rayed on the way out of the airport (does this make sense? Checking luggage of passengers as they leave the airport? I leave that, dear reader, to you to decide). Apparently there was only one screener available, thus only one line and there were by now two flight loads of passengers trying to squeeze through all at once.

With no discernable line a bottleneck sooned formed. I acted like everyone else, I pushed my cart forward into the fray. If I didn’t, if I acted like a gentleman, I would never get through (not true, of course, but it felt like that to me, and to all the others as well, chaos can make good people take unfriendly actions). It was hard to see the value of this exercise, no one was questioned about the contents of their luggage. It seemed like a rote procedure that had to be done. So we all dutifully submitted, to protest was to invite delay. No standing on principal at 10 p.m. at night at Bole International Airport.

After making it through the line I turned on my cellphone and called Wanda. The girls were just going to bed. Amani couldn’t make it, she was too tired. But Wanda said she would tell Abby and Sophia. It was time to find the Toyota Landcruiser that had been parked in the parking lot, load up and go. I travelled for 3 weeks with the key so that I wouldn’t inconvenience anyone into waiting for me. It is a good system. There were the eager young men, ‘porters’ they called themselves, who insisted on helping me with my luggage in spite of my assurances that I could do it myself. Consequently they all got 1 Birr (about 10 cents) which they sullenly accepted, a Westerner should be tipping more in spite of the going rate (should I point out for their 5 minutes of work, if that, I am paying them the equivalent of 20 Birr/hour?) of 25-50 ‘cents’ for Ethiopians.

The Ring Road was mostly empty although I needed to watch out for pedestrians. Dark and quiet, I drove uneventfully to home. It took a couple of honks to get the guards to come to the gate but when I pulled in I saw three figures in the porch light, two small girls waving flags and jumping around like cheerleaders. I parked and as I opened the door to the Landcruiser I was welcomed by Abby and Sophia. Warm smiles, big hugs and happy kisses, still jumping up and down and cheering, “Daddy, daddy, daddy!” And there was Wanda, smiling and waiting for me with a big hug and kiss and saying, “Welcome home. I’m so glad to see you. We’re all glad you are back home.”

The guards lugged all the baggage inside, I’m sure they wondered what the heck I had in them, what was I bringing back, the kitchen sink? Inside there was a big Canadian flag taped up across the opening to the hall, a big ‘Welcome Home Daddy” sign and dozens of little ‘welcome home’ hand-crafted messages around the house. Abby and Sophia were literally bouncing around for the next hour as we enjoyed the homecoming together. Of course they wondered what I brought for them. Too much to open tonight but, I said, there is some Swiss Lindt chocolate that you can have now. That was good enough (along with the promise of more gifts to come the next day). Dear Amani didn’t even wake up when I walked into the bedroom with her chattering sisters (the next day she told me she was aware that I was in the room; her mind told her to turn over and say hi but her body wouldn’t let her do it).

So, family and friends, I am back, safe and sound along with all the ‘loot’ I brought back. Soon after all the greetings had died down I asked Wanda if she knew the score of Game 7 of the ALCS and I could tell right away it wasn’t good news. I had tried to find out how the Tribe did in Frankfurt but it wasn’t possible. Another drubbing by Boston. How very disappointing. I suppose I should be thankful that I saw the Indians at all and that, hey, I wasn’t going to be able to watch them in the World Series anyways. Small consolation. What went wrong? I think a day off at home is one excuse. The no-show of our 2 aces is an even bigger reason. Will there be a next year? Hard to say with the comings and goings of players, but ’08 will be 60 years since the Tribe last won a WS, wouldn’t that be a wonderful coincidence? At any rate, I need to stop the ramblings of an early morning writing session (I couldn’t sleep and got up at 3:30 a.m., I’ll try not to do this again tomorrow). I have good memories of the past 3 weeks, thanks again to all who hosted me in their homes with billeting or for meals. I am happy to be back. Lots of work awaits ahead . . .