Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Safari and its a wrap
Monday, March 14, 2011
Weekend
From Tulbagh to Pretoria
Our farewell breakfast was scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and coffee. And, of course, mushrooms. In the course of a week we learned that the typical SA hot breakfast was all of the above plus mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. Where did this tradition come from? The English? The Dutch? The Boers? At any rate it was a nice addition to breakfast.
Our hosts were Graham and Brandi and it turns out that Brandi is an American from Idaho! In the middle of the Cape winelands, Boer country. Anyways they have been in the B&B business for about 3 years now and are pretty busy. It makes me think that my dream of a B&B could be doable wherever we land in NA. Being out on the internet is huge, that's the way we found them. We used TripAdvisor as well and that was very helpful in finding good spots.
The chocolatier was indeed out of town. As we made our way towards the mountains the road went from paved to dirt. On the right was a whole village we didn't see when we were in town. It was made up of poorer housing and it became evident that it was the area where most of the black Africans lived. Apartheid is over but there is still a separateness here. It makes me think of the American south; I know it was this way 50 years ago but am not sure how much it is still that way today in small towns. People of all ethnic groups have to mix and mingle for business on the main streets in town but socially it seems like there is a long way to go. And like in America, there might be a strong church going presence across the board but on Sunday morning it may be the most segregated time in RSA, like in the USA.
Ah yes, the chocolatier. Her chocolate and the machines were all imported from Belgium. It smelled delicious and the small samples were good so we bought as gifts a bunch of chocolate. Her store is on a ranch/ farm 6 kms out in the country. I wonder how many people come out. We saw the woman only briefly, we dealt mostly with her black African staff.
We still had time to go to the winery Drostdy Hof which was up the road from the B&B. This old establishment had been around for a while but had fallen into disuse after an earthquake in 1969. But it was sold to a large corporation and completely restored. It is on the national register of historical landmarks for the RSA. The building is done in a traditional Dutch design and the inside has old creaky, wooden floors and high ceilings. They put in lots of antique furniture and items such as a room of old phonographs. Wow! But we enjoyed going down to the basement wine cellar to taste their wine. The wine bottles were sitting on old wine barrels with descriptions of the wine and the process of making that wine. You could take a glass, pour some wine in and taste. No one was down there but us. It was fun.
We ended up buying some more wine there, so now we've got to find a way to take it back to Addis Ababa. Some bottles are gifts for our hosts here and for the hosts of our girls there, a small token of our great appreciation for all those who helped make this vacation possible. Thank you!
Finally it was time to go. Back at the B&B we packed up and paid up and said good-bye to Brandi, wishing her well in her venture in South Africa. We got some gas and headed for Cape Town, a 2 hour drive.
Our last tourist thing was to visit Table Mountain. We did. It was open and busy. We took the cable car up and down (it is possible to go one way and walk down or simply hike both ways, but we wanted enough time at the top). It was an amazing trip up and walk around on the top. As we were there the clouds slowly started to roll in. They covered the eastern side of the mountain. We were able to stay up as long as we wanted. It was cool but not cold, there was plenty of sun and it was windy but not enough to close down the mountain (which they do when it gets too windy).
After the cable car ride down the mountain we headed for the airport to return the rental car, check in and have some supper. This we did. We continue to marvel at the airports in SA and how they do security. More than once I wished that the Ethiopian authorities would come for training on how to do security at an airport without being heavy handed and illogical. Alas, I don't see that happening . . .
Friday, March 11, 2011
Small Town RSA
We’ve been in small town RSA (Republic of South Africa) for the past 48 hours. From Stellenbosch to Paarl to Tulbagh to Franschoek. In some ways these small towns are very similar to their NA counterparts.
We drove to the south and east from Tulbagh back to Paarl hoping our experience of getting lost would not be duplicated. Our goal was to find Nederburg wines, but alas, it happened again. Once again we were lost, this time in the industrial section of town. Eventually we figured it out. Partly it is our fault for not remembering landmarks from the day before and partly it is the fault of poor maps and the lack of signs (or no signs at all). This is something that you wouldn’t find a problem in NA in tourist areas.
But we finally found Nederburg Winery. We walked the grounds a bit, read the history in their welcome center, visited their old wine cellar (200 years old and now only used to tell the story of Nederburg), walked into the old mansion which has been around for at least a 150 years. The story starts in 1791 with the purchase of land and the development of the vineyards. Fast forward to 1937 when a man from Bremen, Germany buys the property and begins using more scientific methods to make better wine. Nederburg starts to win prizes for their wine and becomes internationally recognized. It still is the premier winery today, I believe. And yes, we bought some wine before we left.
We headed south and east again through Paarl to Franschoek. This town has a fascinating history. The French Huguenots fled France and settled here to escape religious persecution. They found themselves among other Protestants, namely Dutch Reformed and in several generations they blended in, losing their French language. But some of French culture is retained in this village, particularly the wine making and cuisine. I thought this village reminded me a bit more of a mix of Kidron and Tavistock. The main street was more like Tavistock except for the tourists and shops which Kidron has. But both towns are still ‘working’ towns with large trucks rumbling through the center of town.
We found a restaurant to eat at and once again we hit it lucky. Wanda got a chicken wrap and I got a bacon cheeseburger. Wanda ordered a ‘chocoppuchino’ which turned out to be amazing. Made of 3 main ingredients, coffee, chocolate and ice cream and served like a milk shake, Wanda was blown away how good it was. I tasted it and decided to make it my dessert. I also tried a bottled apple cider which was very good. Although an alcoholic beverage, it wasn’t a hard cider and went well with my hamburger and fries.
After lunch I walked to the local Reformed Dutch Church which was built in the 1840’s. It was a big church and even though updated to a degree, it smelled and looked old in a familiar way, with a musty odor mix of carpet, wooden pews and hymn books. It reminded me a bit like the Mennonite churches in the Niagara peninsula before they were renovated, even what Kidron and Sonnenberg looked like before they were renovated. I stood in the pulpit front a
nd center, the original benches were straight ahead of me, the pipes from an organ were behind and above me. To the right and left were wings with benches and balconies. I wondered how many people attend each Sunday now, how many youth are attending, if they have a mission program. I picked up a brochure on the way in and sat down in a pew to read it. On the way out I noticed an older woman sitting quietly in the corner of the foyer. She had seen me pick up the brochure on the way in and now asked for 5 rand for taking it. It struck me as odd to charge people for a brochure promoting the church (albeit the history of this church) and I asked aloud if the brochure shouldn’t be considered part of the church’s mission. I think it caught her off guard and flustered. She gave me my change in silence. I regretted later that I didn’t chat with her instead to answer the questions I had in the church. If she had said they do mission but this is a tourist activity and charge tourists, I could understand that. After all mission is about the good news of Jesus, not about a brochure.
We made our way back to Tulbagh in the mid afternoon, once again driving through Bains Kloof Pass. The wind had been blowing from the time we entered Franschoek and the mountains that surrounded the region were slowly being covered with clouds, a ‘table cloth’. Were we going to be engulfed in the clouds on the winding and steep passes through the mountains? Wanda was worried but agreed to let me drive it again. The upside is that there are very few vehicles that use the pass so I could relax a bit. But there are places where the drop off from the road is sheer and you can’t make any mistakes. That is what makes Wanda panic, just thinking thoughts of death and danger. There were no clouds in the mountain pass. We made it through again.
We find ourselves eating late for all meals; breakfast from 8-9 a.m., lunch from 3-4 (or later) and supper at 8-9 p.m. Wow, like the rest of Africa. We were the only ones at the Manley Winery Estate restaurant last night. It was next door to our B&B which made it easy to visit. Our server was a very nice and attentive man who, from the outset, we could tell had to be gay, very gay. The owner, obviously British background, came out and said hi to us then left and he took our order. For Wanda the standard order, chicken breast. Each night it is at a different restaurant and they prepare it differently but the meat is the same, chicken breast. I ordered a steak and we waited. The irony is that we were the only patrons but we waited at least as long as if it were busy. We should have taken our Scrabble game and played. As it was the music was from the 70’s and 80’s, most of the songs we remembered. Talk about taking us back; Grease medley, Is she really going out with him? By Joe Jackson, Boat on the river by Styx, I will survive by Gloria Gaynor, etc. So we sang along, declaring the songs good, bad or just plain ugly.
Today we leave the Villa Tarantaal B&B, visit Drostdy Hof winery and make our way back to the Cape before leaving tonight on a flight for Johannesburg.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Summertime in the RSA
It doesn’t quite feel like summer in South Africa until one leaves the city. Then you know. By the angle of the sun. By the look of the trees. By the harvesting of the land, particularly the empty wheat fields and tractors’ wagons laden with grapes. Just as September 21 is the end of summer and the beginning of fall, so March 21 is to South Africa. It is high summer here.
So we left our B&B after another wonderful breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, toast and coffee and headed up to Table Mountain. We had bought our tickets online then headed out but it began to look like a mistake. The ‘table cloth’ was on the mountain; a cloud had descended on Table Mountain. I had seen it several times over the previous days. Very Biblical. It reminded me of the Old Testament story of Moses going up a mountain upon which a cloud rested.
The authorities had closed the cable car rides because of high winds. We would have to try one more time before we left for Pretoria. Instead we drove to Signal Hill and got photos from there. Still spectacular.
I found my way back downtown to the N1 and we headed north and east to wine country. We stopped in at Stellenbosch, the Boer heartland. Here is the Stellenbosch University where, last I heard, courses were still taught in Afrikaans. We heard Afrikaans in the shops, restaurants and on the city streets, much more so than in the Cape. If you know Dutch and English you might pick up the gist of the conversation. It reminds me of Pennsylvania Dutch, which is Alsatian or Swiss German with English mixed in.
At any rate we asked at a locally famous store where we shopped where a nice restaurant might be and she directed us to a very nice place by a creek. It was here that I began to hear the cicadas. The rest of the day I listened for them and noticed their familiar sound everywhere. I loved it. From the time I was a boy I remember the sound of cicadas in summer. My heart and mind associates the sound of cicadas with warm, hazy, lazy summer days.
We drove through Stellenbosch, out of town towards Paarl on a scenic route and arrived mid-afternoon. We stopped at the Information center to try to find Nederburg Winery and got directions. Didn’t matter, we got lost. I was reading the map upside down. By the time we figured it out we were much later in the day than we wanted to be (and I knew certain sections of Paarl much better than I wanted to). So we tried to find our way north and west to Tulbagh to find our B&B, Villa Tarantaal. I managed to find the road leading to Wellington and then to Bains Kloof Mountain Pass. An amazing drive through the mountains ascending and then descending on winding roads and many switchbacks. It was a fun drive for me, but Wanda was nervous imagining all the bad things that could happen as we drove. So then it wasn’t as fun a drive for me. We made it through unscathed. Lord be praised . . .
We found the village of Tulbagh and our B&B. Tulbagh reminds me of small towns in NA, something between Tavistock (bigger) and Stratford (smaller). It is a town that has lots of restaurants and hotels, lodges and B&B’s, a sure sign that this is an area that caters to tourists. There are several churches (Dutch Reformed and Anglican), a gas station (Shell, what else?), and a building supply store among other things. It also reminds me of Niagara-on-the-Lake because the foundation of its tourism is the wine industry. Indeed very similar.
After we settled in in the late afternoon we headed out for supper at one of the restaurants. We found a small restaurant called ‘Readers’. Great food we were told. Indeed the main dishes were great; Wanda had a stuffed chicken breast and I had pork chops with grated bleu cheese on it. Excellent. Our hostess interchanged places with the chef and owner at our table (and the other 2 tables). Our hostess took our wine order (and kept coming up empty when bottle after bottle we ordered wasn’t in stock) and our meal order but the chef/ owner came out to see how we were doing. We moved from inside to outside mid-dinner, a great move. It was so quiet out. This little place was across from a rugby field and after dark that, and really the whole town, was silent. Only the crickets were chirping. Ah, another sign of summer.
We decided to order dessert. Wanda order frozen chocolate mousse. I ordered ‘three kinds of ice cream’. What are the flavors? The hostess refused to tell me, a mystery. H-m-m, ok I can wait. The owner came out, what are the three flavors? That’s for me to know and you to find out, she said with a twinkle in her eyes. Alrighty then, we’ll see. The dish came out. I tried the ice cream. The first scoop, no good to my taste buds. The second scoop, again, nope. The third scoop, I couldn’t be sure, was this vanilla? It looked like it but there wasn’t a strong taste of it. The owner came out, what do you think? I told her honestly, didn’t appeal to me. So what were the three flavors? Balsamic vinegar, cucumber and mint, and olive oil. She was a good sport about it and took the dish back. I ordered a Cape cake with brandy, with vanilla ice cream on top (I think).
Today we’re off wine tasting in wine country, yea!!!